With Rubber Stamp Tapestry you can make highly detailed and sophisticated pieces of artwork that you will be proud to display in your home or give as gifts. Using RST's component stamping method along with the placement line which was a tool that Susan developed in 2002 to make the process easier, you will be amazed at how fast and easy you can stamp a masterpiece!
Ceramic Bisque Notes
Not all of our stamp sets will work on ceramic bisque but many will. All of the fabric stamp line (prefix FAB) works beautifully on bisque as well as the newest additions starting with SFL 34084 Sweet Everlastings through SCO 28001 Paleo Imagery. Other images should be tested first.
Test all underglazes, glazes and stamps for your particular project before starting on your artwork.
Trim the outer edge of the stamp with small scissors if needed. Do not remove the stamp from the wood to do so because it will not adhere well if you try to reapply it to the wood. (In the event that they ever do pop off, apply a small amount of a good adhesive such as E-6000 to the cleaned and dried end before reattaching) Do not be rough when cleaning the stamps in between colors but gently dab them on a damp sponge. If underglaze dries in rubber crevices, use a soft toothbrush with a bit of water to remove it and then pat dry.
Before using the stamps for the first time (only new and unused), very lightly rub the rubber end of the stamp onto a slightly abrasive area such as a piece of ceramic bisque. Do this only once and do it gently so that it will not hurt the rubber. (or you can gently rub the ends with a bit of Joy dishwashing liquid and water, then rinse and dry) The purpose is to remove any oily residue that will keep the underglaze from adhering to the stamp.
Using an underglaze cup with foam, put about 1 teaspoon of underglaze onto the foam and smooth out with a spatula until absorbed. Sometimes you may need a little more or a little less underglaze. Gently tap the stamp on the foam with underglaze and test on a piece of paper. If the image is not clear because of too little moisture, add more underglaze. If the image is too wet to see a clear image, use another piece of foam to absorb the excess. Test and repeat until the right consistency is obtained before beginning your project. Once in a while, with very fine images, I will use a fine mist sprayer to gently remoisten the underglaze so that the image is clearer. Always test on paper first.
Larger images that are solid will take more pressure and more underglaze than small images with fine lines. Test pressure needed and amount of underglaze before beginning your project.
Use the placement line on the end of the wood to determine the position of the image. On many of our botanicals, the line shows where the stem of the leaf or end of the sprig is so that you can turn it towards the flowers, wreath shape or other component in the arrangement.
Our templates, such as the 6 x 6, concentric circle, concentric square, etc., make lining up images an easy task by drawing your base design with a regular pencil directly onto the bisque. The pencil marks will fire off of the piece so there is no need to erase them before glazing.
Use the bitty stamps for very small areas that are harder to reach and for sharper inner and outer curves. The larger stamps are best for flat surfaces and outer curves that are not as sharp. Sometimes you will rock and or roll the stamp to get the best impression. This takes a little practice, but once you learn the technique, you will be amazed at how fast and easy it is.
After stamping your bisque ware with underglaze, dip in a clear glaze and fire. Or, you can take your stamps to your local Paint Your Own Pottery studio. PYOP studios make it simple. All you have to do is pick out your bisque ware and decorate it with their underglazes and they will take care of the whole firing process for you.
Stay tuned for many upcoming projects and tips using Rubber Stamp Tapestry's peg stamp sets!